What The Buck?

By Z.G. Burnett

Unlike boat shoes which, like preppy style, are “back” once again, suede bucks really do have a seasonal range. That is, if you live somewhere that has seasons. Loosely following the rule of not wearing white before Memorial Day (May 27) or after Labor Day (September 2) in North America, suede bucks aren’t typically worn in the winter or transitional seasons because walking even on the cleanest of sidewalks would destroy them within two blocks. Yes, even if you use a suede-protecting spray. Some prefer the worn-in look while others chalk their bucks after each wear, if not while wearing them during an event. I’ve seen it myself. With temperatures slowly rising each year, this unassumingly versatile shoe allows for both preferences.

The suede buck or Buc was introduced as a sporty alternative to heavy lace-ups with leather soles in the 1920s and 1930s, when their rubber soles could be mass manufactured. Bucks were paired with casual or resort wear, and popularized by the consummate trendsetter and problematic favorite, Edward the Duke of Windsor. Bucks fell out of fashion during World War II because their materials were in high demand, but came back into style in postwar years. Soldiers returning to civilian life had become used to the ease if not comfort of military clothing, and bucks in darker colors became more acceptable as workplace dress codes loosened.

Today, white bucks are as divisive in menswear as madras: some wait all year to break them out for the sunny, dry weather, while others find them affected and dated. Pristine suede shoes with a seersucker suit need only a bowtie to complete the “Simple Country Lawyer After Church” look, yet nothing pairs better with crisp linens. “Dirty” bucks, or bucks in a light tan or camel color, mitigate this perceived affectation and require slightly less maintenance.

In my experience selling vintage menswear, customers sometimes want pre-scuffed bucks, either because they know it will happen eventually or because they don’t want to take the time to do it themselves. This is also often the case for penny loafers. I’ve often wondered if I should charge more for this stolen valor, as people still seem to have no issue paying top dollar for “distressed” jeans full of holes.

Now that I’ve turned into my father with this complaint, I’ll conclude with the observation that bucks are a blank canvas for spring and summer fashion. They’re an elegant alternative to wearing sneakers to work during the hotter months and are one more vanguard against sandals or slides or flip flops, and for this they’ll always have my unwavering support. For those who protest, take a look at what ends up on bucks and ask yourself if that’s really what you want smeared on and within your toenails. I didn’t think so.

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Z. G. Burnett

Z.G. Burnett is a New England-based writer who specializes in history, fashion, and material culture. She is a contributing editor for Antiques and the Arts Weekly, and her work has appeared in Ivy Style and The Vintage Woman Magazine. Burnett is currently editing her first book, The Preppy Witch Primer. Find more at www.zgburnett.com.

Image credit: Annie Minicuci Photography.

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