Let's (Not) Get Political
- Z. G. Burnett
- Dec 6, 2024
- 2 min read
Clothing has been a banner of resistance since sumptuary laws went by the wayside, often due to political upheavals or revolutions. The Incroyables and Merveilleuses of the French Directory (1795-99) come to mind, ostentatiously preening their pretensions after surviving the brief but fatal Reign of Terror (1792/93-94). More recently, the 1970s punk movement railed against the British monarchy while appropriating fascist symbolism, mostly to make a statement or rile up their veteran forebears. Symbols created by oppressive regimes can later become symbols of power for those they were meant to destroy. See the inverted pink triangle that marked homosexual prisoners in German concentration camps, then recreated by the LGBT community as a badge of pride.
The Tweet/X post/whatever shown above is an example of how clothing can be everything and nothing. By using Derek Guy of @dieworkwear as an example of an elite, snobby, “broad cultural problem among Dems in general,” Matt Stoller reveals how effective criticizing someone’s outfit can be in getting under their skin. In response, Guy illustrates how this Ivy League-educated son of a banker somehow didn’t learn that those in glass houses shouldn’t throw stones. Image-searching Stoller, I see why he might be offended by some of Guy’s hateful rhetoric against those who dress like slobs but have their net worth scrubbed from the Internet. From my time in Harvard Square, I can confirm that he isn’t an outlier.
For “authentically aristocratic” menswear enthusiasts, there are two main options for how to dress in what’s sure to be a hell of a four-year term. Tone it down with a uniform of cotton khaki trousers, white crew neck tees, three colors of quarter-zip merino sweaters, and shoes with leather tops and sneaker treads. Or, turn the volume up to 11.
Wear your formal wear and a kilt to Thanksgiving, especially if your family voted poorly and you have zero Scottish heritage. Bring out the “go to hell” critter and madras pants year-round, the weather’s only going to get warmer. And that crazy jacket or shirt that you bought on a whim but haven’t worn outside yet? Put it on. The Cold Culture War has only just begun.
Z.G. Burnett is a New England-based writer who specializes in history, fashion, and material culture. She is a contributing editor for Antiques and the Arts Weekly, and her work has appeared in Ivy Style and The Vintage Woman Magazine. Burnett is currently editing her first book, The Preppy Witch Primer. Find more at www.zgburnett.com
Image credit: Annie Minicuci Photography.
Comments